Cosmeceuticals seem to be the fabled genie in the bottle - able to grant almost any wish that you may have for your skin, whether you want it to be smoother, more radiant or younger-looking. In a market that gives consumers more and more choices, how can you decide whether the ingredients in that bottle are right for you?
A recent meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology, dermatologist Diane S. Berson, MD, FAAD, assistant professor of dermatology at the Weill Medical College of Cornell University defined cosmeceuticals as cosmetics that may have pharmaceutical or drug-like properties, Dr. Berson went on to say that "Like cosmetics, cosmeceuticals are applied just to the surface of the skin, but instead of only covering up a problem, they may be able to help fix it. They are commonly found in such products as eye creams, moisturizers, cleansers and foundations."
Antioxidants
One form of this is antioxidants. Well known for their place in the diet, they also can play a role in skin care. The skin is constantly exposed to harmful environmental forces such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation, air pollutants, heat and cold. Besides these external factors, the skin also has to cope with internal forces such as the aging process and free radicals. Free radicals are molecules that injure the skin´s cells, causing inflammation, increasing sun damage and contributing to the development of skin cancer. Antioxidants can reduce the harmful effects of free radicals and protect the skin from additional stress and damage.
Common examples of antioxidants include vitamins A, B, C and E, co-enzyme Q10 (ubiquinone), idebenone, and flavonoids such as green tea and soy extracts. "Products that contain antioxidants can be particularly beneficial for people who are concerned about fine lines and wrinkles," Dr. Berson said. "To get the best results, consumers should look for a product that combines antioxidants."
Recommendations: I agree that there is good scientific research to support the use of antioxidants. Vitamin C, which is available is 5%-20% concentrations. can help reverse sun damage-My favorite products are Active C for sensitive skin, Skin Medica’s Dermal Repair with C and E and Benev’s 20% Vitamin C. Prevage (idebenone 1%) by the same company that makes Botox , is also very effective but can irritate sensitive skin.
Growth Factors
Growth factors are compounds that act as chemical messengers between cells and play a role in cell division, new cell and blood vessel growth, and the production and distribution of collagen and elastin."Growth factors have been used extensively for treating wounds," Dr. Berson said. "Research has shown that they can improve elasticity, so these ingredients can be beneficial for someone who wants to firm loose skin."
Recommendations: I agree with Dr Benson and favor the SkinMedica line for these benefits. Skinmedica TNS antiaging gel, TNS eye cream and TNS moisturizer all contain a growth factor called “Neurocel” derived from skin cell cultures. . And, they back up their claims with clinical trials and before and after photos. See this newsletter for a special spring offer on these products.
Hydroxy Acids
The benefits of alpha and beta hydroxy acids have long been known, "If you have dull, rough skin, hydroxyl acids can " help draw moisture into the skin, which can minimize dryness and the look of fine lines and wrinkles." Dr Berson said
Beyond the Hype
Although cosmetics and cosmeceuticals are tested for safety, testing to determine whether beneficial ingredients actually live up to a manufacturer's claims is not mandatory. When considering a cosmeceutical product, it´s important to read the label and determine what´s in the product. Some manufacturers make claims that can’t support with clinical trials. . "No cream or lotion can do what a prescription medication or dermatological procedures like botulinim toxin, fillers or laser/light treatments can," Dr. Berson said. "Cosmeceuticals can be combined with dermatological treatments, but they do not replace them. If you have concerns about your skin´s appearance and are not sure what to use, it´s best to consult a dermatologist before purchasing a cosmeceutical."
Reprinted from HYPERLINK "http://www.aad.org" www.aad.org (the official website of the American Academy of Dermatology
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Today there are several lasers that can improve fine lines and brown spots with minimal “down time”. One of the most talked-about technologies is “Fraxel" laser, which rejuvenates the skin in stages over 4-5 treatments. Patients are able to have a procedure on Friday and go back to work on Monday. Acne scars, fine lines and dark pigmentation all are gradually improved. For patients with darker skin tones, treatment can be done safely with lower laser energies. 
